114 ( +1 | -1 ) mate the King on one of the border linesWhite: Kd6, Rg5 Black: Kc4
1. Rh5 (in order to get the King's opposition) 1. - Kb4 (1. - Kd4 is answered by 2. Rh4+, and 1. - Kx3 by either 2. Kx5 or 2. Rh4) 2. Kc6 (maybe 2. Rc5 is bit faster, it doesn't matter)
And now Black has to move on the a-file (2. - Ka4 3. Rb5 or 2. - Ka3 3. Rb5) or to x3 (x = b, c) followed by 3. Kx5 or 3. Rh4 or (usually) 2. - Kc4 3. Rh4+ Kd3 4. Kd5 Ke3 5. Ra4 with the same plan as already shown (4. - Kc3 is simply answered by 5. Rg4).
So you should use the King's opposition and tempo-moves with your rook (1. Rh5 and 5. Rg4 are such moves) to push the opponent's King to a boarder line. When the board has no more lines, it is mate!
The only danger of stale-mate is the position White: Kc3, Rh2 Black: Ka1 In this case you should beware of 1. Rb2 (stale-mate), 1. Kb3 Kb1 2. Rh1++ looks a little bit better.
There is no need to push the opponent's King into one of the four corners, the other 24 boarder spaces (b1-g1 are six of them) are fine as well. Some theorists once figured out how many moves are needed maximum to mate with a Queen or with a rook - no matter where the three tokens are put in the beginning. I forgot the result (Queen: 9 moves, rook: 18 moves ?), but that is not important because both is far away from the 50-moves-rule (after 50 moves with no pawn-move and no capture the opponent can claim a draw).
42 ( +1 | -1 ) Basic endgame study paysRecently, I had the opportunity to play out the sequence in one of my GK games. Compared to other end-game moves, Rook+King vs. King is really easy to understand and apply in the actual games. I’m a beginner myself (1400-1500 in GK), but I’d like to recommend my fellow beginners to study at least the several basic end-game skills. It really helps to win a win game. However, a thick end-game book might not be necessary at first.
124 ( +1 | -1 ) very true, dysflThe two most common endgames imho are pawn- and rook-endgames.
And the easiest pawn-endgame is like: White: Ke3, Pf3 Black: Kg6 The most-easy-to-remember-rule for Black to escape to a draw is: A): Try to occupy one of the two "good" spaces (those in front of the opponent's pawn - here they are f4 and f5) B): if A) is not possible, take the opposition
So the game goes like: 1. - Kf5 (good space) 2. f4 Kf6 (good space, both good spaces have moved forward by 2. f4, too) 3. Ke4 Ke6 (no good space available, opposition) 4. f5+ Kf6 (Kf7 is also okay, both are good spaces) 5. Kf4 Kf7 6. Kg5 Kg7 7. f6+ Kf8 (or Kf7, too) 8. Kg6 Kg8 9. f7+ Kf8 (only one good space now, but it's enough) 10. Kf6 stale-mate (1/2- 1/2) (It is a draw from the very beginning - but only with Black to move first!)
The winning strategy for White is logical. Simply don't allow Black to meet either one of the two rules A) and B)! So with White starting to move 1. Kf4 is a big blunder because of rule B): 1. - Kf6 and an easy draw. Knowing that, White better goes 1. Ke4 Kf6 (neither A) nor B) is possible) 2. Kf4 Ke7 3. Kg5 Ke6 (3. - Kf7 4. Kf5 Kg7 5. Ke6 Kg6 6. f4 Kg7 7. f5 Kf8 8. Kf6 Ke8 9. Kg7) 4. f4 Kf7 (4. - Ke7 is answered by 5. Kg6) 5. Kf5 Ke7 (at least blocking the f6-space) 6. Kg6 Ke6 (6. - Ke8 7. Kg7 or 6. - Kf8 7. Kf6 Kg8 8. Ke7) 7. f5+ Ke7 8. Kg7 and now White obviously wins
I never found this strategy written down in any book, it has been shown to me some years ago by an opponent during a post-game-analysis. He shared it with me, maybe it is of some use for you, too - good luck!
211 ( +1 | -1 ) STIVB_99 :Rook and King mate ...There are two basic means. The first and less efficient is for you to use the Rook to cut off his king to as few ranks as possible. Preferably on the far side of your K from where his is. Then anytime he steps Back a rank, you take that rank away by moving your rook to the one he left. But if he plays best, he will never Give you a rank for free like that. Instead you must obtain King opposition against his King by following his with a rank between you until he must either yeild that rank or step back toward your king, giving you the opposition. At that point you check with the Rook to force him back from that rank. You would then move your king a rank closer to his and continue to chase him till you got the opposition again and can check him witht the rook then and drive him back again. Note that when this occurs with his king already on the rim rank, he will be mated. More efficient technique to learn involves constriction of his King moves using the Rook. Sample position: Him: Ka7 You:Rf6 Kc5 **************** On your move you could play Kb5 then his Kb7 gives you the oppostion for your Rf7+, then he plays Kc8, Kb6 or Kc6 and the chase goes on again across another rank etc. But you can shorten the game using constiction, such as : 1.Rb6 Ka8 2,Kc6 Ka7 3.Kc7 Ka8 4.Ra6++# MATE. Note that when his K is in the corner, you do not need the opposition to mate. See too that White would have a terrible move possible there ... Rb7?? which gives BL the stalemate! A Draw. ** Suppose that for move 3...BL was already on a8 and so his move is Ka7 instead ... Rather than playing Rb8 and chasing him with your K until you have opposition for the mate, again use constriction to work for you by dropping a tempo to force his K to the corner allowing mate. ... 3...Ka7 4.Rd6 Ka8 5.Ra6++# mate. *********** How about another practice mate. WT Kc6,Rb5 BL Ka6 here's the fast way ... 1.Rd5 Ka7 2.Rd8 Ka6 3.Ra8++# So remember the Rook-walkabout in like positions where you have the opposition and his K attacks your Rook ... as it works just as well if all the pieces there started 2 or more squares south as well. For eg Ka4 vs Kc4 Rb3 WT just moves Rd3,Rd6,Ra6 mate. regards }8-)
55 ( +1 | -1 ) misato wrote, "Some theorists once figured out how many moves are needed maximum to mate with a Queen or with a rook - no matter where the three tokens are put in the beginning. I forgot the result (Queen: 9 moves, rook: 18 moves ?)"
Karsten Muller and Frank Lamprecht, [i]Fundamental Chess Endings[/i] gives 10 moves for QK v K as the longest required (wKa1, Qb2; bKf5) and 16 moves for RK v K (wKa1, Rb2; bKc3).
I recommend practicing these against Fritz (blitz time controls) until no more than 11 and 17 moves are needed.